BLOG STORY • THE OTHER BURLINGTON // TRAVEL, FOOD + DRINK, MEMOIR
The view from Mt. Philo in Burlington, Vermont. Photo by Heather Heagney.
I had a feeling I would like Burlington, Vermont.
When a friend of mine moved there, I began to learn about what I at first had thought of as, "the other Burlington", since the only Burlington I knew was the suburban city outside of Toronto. The more I heard, the more Burlington, Vermont conjured up visions of my visit to Berkeley, California, or what I thought Portland, Oregon might be like — a haven of craft beers, entrepreneurs, farm-to-table cuisine, hippies, and beautiful scenery. With all of this to inspire me and a friend whom I missed dearly calling me, I set out on my journey.
I traveled the long way, through the beautiful Adirondack Mountains. It was a trip littered with slow drivers, gorgeous trees, and daring cyclists. In the end, it led me to a quaint ferry ride from Port Kent, New York to Burlington, Vermont. After sharing a sunny ride with tourists, families, and Harley Davidson bikers, I finally spied a cute lakeside marina and my smiling friend, who was waving at me and I’m sure, wondering why I took the long way.
Later that day, just as the sun was setting, we drove to the nearby town of Shelburne to watch the sunset at the beautiful Shelburne Farms. We took in the multi-hued view of mountains and the lake while enjoying the sweet evening breeze.
We then hit the road and drove to Fiddlehead Brewing Company where we enjoyed some local craft beer, and then went next door to indulge in some wood-fired pizza at Folino's Wood Fired Pizza. It was the perfect way to begin a fun weekend away.
The next morning we woke up with a full itinerary planned. With only one full day together, we didn't do everything on our list, but we got pretty close. We started the day at the City Market/Onion River Co-op with a breakfast sandwich and a coffee (this co-op is amazing). It was very inspiring, as I am a member of the West End Well, a food co-op here in Ottawa that is just in its infancy. Visiting City Market was like seeing what the West End Well could be in the future. It was also fun because it made me feel like I was back in San Francisco with a focus on delicious, healthy, sustainable food, and California wines lining the shelves.
After breakfast, knowing how much more food and drink we would be enjoying throughout the day, we took an invigorating hike up Mount Philo. Huffing and puffing my way up the path was worth it to take in the beautiful view and familiar foliage.
After our hike, we decided to head straight to Lake Champlain for a refreshing dip, and what a good decision that was. After our cold plunge, we sat on the rocks, letting the sunshine dry us off before heading on to our next destination: Ben & Jerry's!
Our hands were too busy gluttonously devouring ice cream cones to take photos, but next to the ice cream itself, our favourite part of the Ben & Jerry's factory was The Flavor Graveyard. This “graveyard” was a quirky set of humourous headstones where past ice cream flavours came to their final resting place.
Between the ice cream and our next meal, we enjoyed touring the town of Shelburne, visiting cute shops, and eventually heading to the Cheese Traders & Wine Sellers to pick up some wine. We then grabbed a light lunch at Healthy Living Market before heading back to the house to relax before dinner.
Later that evening we took a stroll to downtown Burlington for dinner. We started at the Hotel Vermont at their rooftop bar, Juniper. After enjoying a cocktail and an absolutely delicious heirloom tomato and burrata dish, we headed next door to Hen of the Wood, which is also owned by Hotel Vermont.
We sat at the Chef's bar and enjoyed a multi-course meal featuring fresh fish and delicious local ingredients. My friend let me take a sip of her Heady Topper, which was voted World's Best Beer in Beer Advocate Magazine. I enjoyed some refreshing wines and we indulged in some house-made Parker House rolls with fresh butter. Finishing the meal by sipping a lovely Amaro, I was very satisfied with our shared meal. I would highly recommend Hen of the Wood for its amazing food, service, and atmosphere.
When the sun rose the next day, my friend headed back to work and I drove to Shelburne Farms for the day. A non-profit, sustainable working farm that was born out of a historical family estate, Shelburne Farms works to make the future more sustainable through teaching, farming, and food production.
I started by visiting my animal friends including some sheep who were having a little chinwag, and a calf who was giving me her best smize, ready for her closeup. My favourite was the goat who was chilling in his shed, boasting a beard that would make any hipster envious.
I wandered over to the teaching garden and the cutest little farm stand. The garden was bursting with local veggies, bordered by a row of colourful zinnias.
The 1,400-acre property boasts different barns and buildings, some used for food production (cheese, meat, vegetables, bread, eggs, maple syrup), some for education (school groups, families), and some for events (the Coach Barn). I felt like Elizabeth Bennett walking through the fields, with only my thoughts to accompany me.
Just down the road from the barns is The Inn at Shelburne Farms, a gorgeous throwback to the 19th Century which combines the relaxation of a summer home with the pomp and circumstance of a place like Downton Abbey. There were amazing spots surrounding the inn where you could take advantage of the view of Lake Champlain. The restaurant at the inn serves a 75% local menu to diners and guests alike, and you can take your glass of wine out into the English garden at dusk.
Shelburne Farms was really a highlight during my trip to Vermont. A place where any food-obsessed person would love to visit or work, it exudes passion for sustainable farming and provides fresh, local food to its guests. I was very inspired and my wheels started turning, conjuring up ideas and dreams for future food and business adventures.
On my final morning in Burlington, I grabbed a coffee and boarded the ferry to set sail back to New York state. It was a grey and windy day, and as I left the port for home, I smiled, knowing that this trip was truly an experience where I got to eat delicious, local, fresh food, drink lovely wines, and connect with my friend, through laughter and good conversation. I highly recommend checking out "the other Burlington" when you get a chance.
After the Harvest, 2014.